The second part of the big cycling trip of the year was on France and also divided in 2 areas. First in a place well known as I visited many times over the years: the foot on the highest mountain in Europe, the Mont Blanc. More precisely in the village of Passy, very close to the border with Switzerland. The second area was in the Alsace region, beside the little village of Munster (not to confuse with Munster, Germany, as I originally did when discussing the plans with the guys) which was a first for me. Both areas had great cycling rides and different types of mountains, types of roads and difficulties but also completely different culture, history, food and people.
Stores and photos after the break.
Day 6 - August 15th - Transfer to France
Leaving Italy was bittersweet because I was really enjoying the mountains and the valley rides there. But we were going to an area that I liked a lot (just being there in May this year) and there was one ride that I've been planning to complete for 7 years, the Signal de Bisanne. Another good thing was that a transfer day meant I could rest and recover to get rid of the head cold. The drive was standard, with the inevitable (and stupid) traffic jam in the Mont Blanc tunnel, which cause a delay of 3 hours. Pieter drove all the way and I was happy with that as I could sleep most of the day (even while using a face mask trying to avoid contaminating the other guys).
Our house in Passy was an old chalet but with enough space for everybody and the bikes. Passy itself is a very small village, which is almost at the foot of the Plain Joux climb (not to confuse with the famous Joux Plain climb that is also in the region). It has 2 restaurants (which one is always closed) and one snackbar. So, we had to deal with the one single place and a long wait, but the food (a juicy hamburger with fries) was good and carb loading for next day was a good. :).
Day 7 - August 16th - Col de la Colombiere & Col des Aravis
Learning from the strategy in Cuneo, I decided to join the early group as I the cold was still going strong. Aaron, Cliff, Dave and I left at 8:00 with the goal to meet at the top of the Col de la Colombiere for a quick coffee to regroup with the team and have lunch down in the valley later. I know this climb really well and knew that the start is soft, the middle doable but the last 3 kilometers are very hard. So, I started easy and kept my heart rate at a low level not to go too deep too soon. It was still a game to climb well but keep some energy to get better from the cold. My hope was to feel better the next day to ride the queen stage of the trip. Funny enough, maybe because I was saving energy most of the climb, the last 3 kilometers didn't feel that hard as I remember and I finished feeling strong, which was a good sign.
We regrouped at the top of the Colombiere while we had the mandatory coffee and coca-colas, while watching the parade of cyclists and motorbikes. Cliff was just behind me and I had a chance to call Ana as we were there in a hiking holiday just one year ago. Right on time for Dave and Aaron to finish followed by Pieter, Paul and Arjan. When we were leaving a group of Germans on bike packing equipment just stroke a conversation with us and they were funny and friendly guys. We would see them later in the day as we were going the same direction and when we were leaving one of them (a gentle funny giant on a steel yellow bike!) call out that someone (that being me) had forgotten a mobile on the table and that saved me from a lot of trouble.
The descent was fast and most of the time surrounded by motorcyclists. Big groups in both directions. Some of the time I was losing my patience and overtaking them but that was not smart. At some point, one of them on a cafe racer bike almost overcooked a corner and hit a wall right in front of me and I decided to be more careful. He saved it just in time and maybe brushed his jacket on the stone wall! There was also a lot of car traffic and we needed to be careful to avoid accidents.
We had lunch in Saint-Jean-de-Sixt (good hamburgers that we shared 50/50% not to be too full), right at the foot of the Col du Aravis and started the climb with the whole team. As the Colombiere, I'm very familiar with the Aravis and the west side climb is gentle enough. Usually one can push quite hard all the way and keep good speed. On the way up, we passed the group of Germans again, as they apparently didn't stop for lunch, and we made good jokes (I asked if the big guy could carry my mobile for me, haha). I finished with a little push at the false flat at the end as it was the first climb that I started to actually feel good. When everybody arrived and took a lot of photos, we started the easy and fast descent towards Flumet but had to stop halfway thru because we were caught by heavy rain.
We waited hiding under a marquise and the rest of the ride was an easy descend and an easy climb towards the house. Pieter took off ahead of everybody and I found myself also alone but re-joined him a little later in Megeve and we went together back to the house. It was good to stay in his wheel as he is really strong and also a good descender, very stable and controlled. I usually like to climb in front but felt save to ride with him. Great first riding day in France.
Day 8 - August 17th/18th - Saint Gervais Les Bains & Notre Dame de la Gorge & Rain Day (off)
Unfortunately the weather forecast for the 17th wasn't good. Heavy rain in the afternoon. And with a lot of traffic due to this being the last weeks of the European summer vacation, we didn't feel safe to go up the big mountains. So we made up a new plan to do 2 easy climbs: first from Passy to Saint Gervais les Bains which is a very nice little village and from there to the Notre Dame de la Gorge, an easy climb following the gorge and finishing the nice little church where the road ends and the hiking paths starts. I've done the hiking in that area from there and it is really nice. On the top we just relax a little and went back down to Saint Gervais for a coffee. We even got a new joiner by a young french rider that was training in the region for a grand fondo. He asked if he could ride a little with us and he was a nice guy.
On the way back I told the guys that if we felt like it we could complete the climb of the Plain Joux, which would be around 11 km climb passing right behind our house. We rode more or less together until the start of the climb and when we started really going up, I saw that the predicted afternoon rain was arriving. It looked like it was already raining hard at the top of the climb and I saw part of the team stopping at the house. Only Paul went ahead. I decided that I didn't want to risk a relapse from the cold and went back. I shouted to Paul that I was stopping but I was not sure if he heard. Aaron decided to let him know and they both completed the climb. I was happy with my decision.
More rain - the forecast for the 18 was even worse. Heavy rain the whole day. After a late wake up and lazy breakfast we figure out that it would be a no ride day. Too cold and wet. Pieter and I went to Chamony, 30 minutes from Passy, really on the foot of Mont Blanc. We both have the nervous energy to be doing something. Not to stay put for too long. And I have never seen Chamony so busy! Every tourist and athlete that couldn't exercise that day decided to go to the city. It was packed with sports people, hikers, families and dogs. After a quick stroll thru the stores and a coffee, we decided to go back and relax in the house, hoping the next day the weather would be better for our big ride.
Day 9 - August 18th - Col de Saisies North and South & Signal de Bisanne
With the forced rest day on the 17th, I woke up feeling better and almost fully recovered. I was still coughing and feeling some muscle pain but the worst part was over. Sadly for Paul that was not the case as he was suffering from food poisoning from the last 2 days. A pity because he was really looking forward to this ride but being the strong minded person that he is, he still decided o try. Most of us decided that the best approach was to drive to Combloux and do a gentle start downhill from there before going to the projected 2.5 thousand vertical meters of climbing. Also saving around another 800 hundred climbing meters to get to and back from Combloux. Aaron and Pieter, the real strong guys of the group, left earlier to do the whole thing after joining us at the "start".
From Combloux, the route goes on a very light and gentle climb towards Megeve and from there is downhill all the way to almost Flumet where the Col de Saisies start. It is the reverse of the way back from the Aravis that we did on 16th. I did this climb in May in the first loop, but in reverse. This time we went thru Crest Voland, climbing the Saisies from the west side, which I think it is steeper in certain points but has a valley in the middle that lets you recover the legs (or push harder if you feel like it). During the climb we encounter some road constructions where they were laying down small gravel before adding the asphalt. It was really annoying. Especially for my bike with very little tire clearance and small stones getting stuck between the tire and the frame (and sure scratching it). It is agonizing to keep riding a 10% climb in that way!
I was the first one on the top this time because Pieter stopped in the valley to wait for the other guys and Aaron stayed with the group. Only way that would happen! From there we regrouped and descended towards the col de Bisanne, which is not a difficult climb and it is short. Until you turn right to go to the Signal the Bisanne, a little 2 to 3 kilometer climb to get to the top of a ski lift, that doesn't go below 12% which some points of 13%. Dave was feeling super strong at this moment and just went for it, which was great to see. Really inspirational as he is about to turn 70! Right with me was Aaron, that was freaking me out. He was zigzagging the climb (he told me he wasn't feeling 100% that day) and at one point I could hear him on the left side and the next moment on the right. Aaron in Stereo!
Slow motion and hard climb. But the top view is really worthed. You can see for kilometers and kilometers, eveni in a downcasted day like it was. There is a restaurant at the top and we stop to get coffee and eat crepe mirtille (nice!) and the obligatory coca-colas. We didn't hang out too much on the top because it was chilly and we descended to Villard Sur Doron, to complete the valley round and climb the Saisies from the East / South side. The descend was fast and I just didn't manage to go even faster because of the bad tarmac and a BMW driver that didn't let me pass but didn't dare to really push...
When we started the climb, my bike was doing some strange noises. Like rasping metal. I had to stop and told the rest to go ahead. I lost a good 15 minutes taking the wheels out, spinning everything to try to find what it was. Maybe a little pebble got stuck somewhere. After trying twice, the noise stopped and I could start the climb but alone. At one point I could see Aaron and Arjan and really pushed to get back to them, which I did but paid the price. I was running out of "gas" in the last 2 kilometers to Hauteluce! But did the best I could and was happy. Finally had some climbing legs. And now the most enjoyable part of the day was that descent. I gave everything. Pushed hard and hardly touched the breaks, hitting almost 85 km/h at max speed.
In the middle of the way down, there is a climb of around 2 kms and right when we got to the bottom there was a bus behind us that stopped to let people out. I didn't want for the bus to get in front of me on the second part of the descend. And knowing that sometimes those buses take a long time on their stop I decided to give all in those 2 kms to be ahead of the bus. I really pushed to above my threshold and started the descend with nothing to hold me back. It was GREAT! Later I learned that the bus doesn't continue but go back to the top. It was all unnecessary, you fool! But good to know that I could.
And the rest was just the false flat back to Combloux to regroup, load the cars and go back home. It was a great day and really good to feel that the power was coming back to my legs. Next day would be another transfer. This time to Alsace weird region.
Day 10/11 - August 19th & 20th - Transfer day & Col du Grand Ballon
Another transfer day, from Passy to Stosswihr, in the Alsace region. Short drive. Strange place due to history. The place is in France, people speak french and look french. But because the are has changed "hands" between France and Germany in the wars, the name of the villages, roads, the look of the buildings and the food are definitively German. I kind of like it! We can get flammkuchen mid ride which are not as heavy as a full pizza and sure tasty. But on our first dinner in Munster, I decided to go for a goat cheese salad, which was really good.
The first day in this region was overcasted. The more north we went from Italy the worse the weather got. We planned to start riding at 9:00 but end up starting 30 min late. I really wanted to get on time to avoid the forecasted rain in the afternoon. So, as soon as we started I really wanted to push and as I was feeling done with the cold, I wanted to really try the legs on the climbs. The plan of the day was to ride the Grand Ballon loop, which Garmin showed 4 climbs longer than 2 kms, with the Grand Ballon climb with 11kms and the Col du Firstplan, with 8 kms, with another 12 climbs in between below 2 kms in distance. So, it was more or less like riding in the Eiffel region in Germany, close to the Netherlands border.
The Grand Ballon was very close to our start and as soon we started, Pieter went in front and I tried to stay in his wheel. He also adjusted his effort to keep me on the limit but not dropping. Really nice of him. The 11 kms is a fairly constant 8 to 10% with some moments of 5% and some ramps of 12%, some hairpins and turns, but mostly straight lines inside the alpine trees. Almost no cars and being mid week also not many motorbikes. Very peaceful. I rode the climb on my FTP, not going crazy but also not slacking. I want to go beyond my threshold only on the hard ramps. At some point he almost dropped me but realized and went a little easy on the pedals. He later told me that he could confirm that what I thought my FTP is was indeed correct. So, something to improve.
In Le Breitfirst top we thought we were on the top and decided not to stay long waiting because it was misty (read moisty and cold). He wanted to go back to catch the rest of the team and I decided to continue and wait at the bottom on the South side. Turns out that this was not the top as the actual Grand Ballon was further, after a fast descent, a reward on itself which was crazy fast and beautiful before the last kilometers to the real top. I spent just a couple of minutes there to take the mandatory selfie and went on. The south side has more open views (which comes with some cross winds), and is more varied. There were a handful of 8% climbs for good measure on it. At one point, the road goes thru a cobblestone corner, that you hit going around 60 kms and could be dangerous as they were wet. Right at the moment a young rider passed me like I was standing still, flying downhill with his clattering bike. He looked like around 16 kms (I had seen him on the top with an older guy, his father or coach). On the last ramp before the rest of the descent they passed me again which surprised me. They were proper training hard, really cool to see.
At the bottom of the descent I got our table on the restaurant secured and waited for the rest. It was a nice place with pizzas, burgers and flammkuchen. One of the guys (the one that cause the delay in the morning) decided not to stay with the group for lunch, which upsetted me. I got the traditional one with white cream and bacon. Enough energy to finish the second half of the climb. Nice lunch with good laugh and camaraderie, banter and jokes. From there, Arjan took the owners of captain again and guided us towards the last climb of the day. It was a flat & gentle false flat downhill and that immediately cause the group to fracture. We were going nice and fast. Arjan, Pieter and I went ahead going well on the open roads. On the last climb, I manage to stay with Pieter and Arjan decided to take at the tempo he was feeling comfortable and stay a little behind. I managed to stay with Pieter but after that when he kept the pressure on the flat and I had to let it go. I did the last 10 kms alone at an easy pace. I was done but happy and got home just in time to avoid the rain. Good day and satisfied that I could ride at my ftp limit.
Day 12/13 - August 21st Rain - No ride & August 22nd Col Le Linge, Col du Calvaire & Col du Schlucht
The forecast for the 21st was changing by the hour on the day before. So, I plotted an alternative route closer to home during the evening of the 20th and waited to see how it would go in the morning. There was a chance that the rain would only hit around 11:00 and we could do a short ride. But the weather forecast and the clouds were not in our favor and it showed rain the whole day starting at 10am. I decided not to ride at all and some of the guys went out to ride the Col du Schlucht on the opposite direction that we would do on the 22nd. That proved to be the right thing. They manage to get up there and enjoy a great descent and come back just before the rain hit for real. But it was cold and humid and I was happy that I could use the time to relax, walk around Munster and clean my bike that was still making annoying noises.
The plan for the 23th was to ride a loop on the north west side of Stosswihr, going thru 3 mid size climbs. The Col Le Linge, with 9 kms, the Col du Calvaire, with 5 kms and finally the Schlucht, with almost 7kms. The first one was almost right from our doorstep and the team splitted a little due to navigation confusion. But most of us regrouped quickly and I decided to really push again to close to my anaerobic threshold, keeping my heart rate around 155 or 160 bpm. It was great to climb at that tempo, feeling that I was actually riding uphill and not just surviving the climb. On the top we saw the monument to remember the World War 1, with a German and French cemeteries. From there we went down quickly thru moist roads but I felt very safe and could let the bike go. We regrouped in the valley and Arjan went again in front. Arijan, Dave and I pushed a little on the rolling hills and it was great collaboration. Arjan took the front when the road was flat or false flat and I took the front when it was above 3%.
We hit the bottom of Col du Calvaire quickly and I pushed again. Because we had a good advantage on Paul and Pieter, I managed to finish first. Just a couple of minutes ahead but felt really good. A pit that I wasn't feeling like this in Italy and around Mont Blanc. We regrouped and went down the mountain towards our lunch place in a nice downhill on main roads but with very wide view and Pieter and I just pushed down quick. When we found the restaurant we were both really cold and shivering and took a long time to warm up. To the point that when my brad with brie came I used it warm my hands.
After a nice lunch, we went to the last climb of the day, the col du Schlucht with a little climb in between col du Wettstein. We rode tempo and on the Schlucht, Paul and i stayed most of it together. Until the last 2 kms, when he dropped me in his low tempo style. Great to see him recovered from the food poisoning and in good shape a high spirits. The descent was nice but there was too many cars and I had to be on the brakes a lot of the time.
Great ride to finish the 2 weeks of riding in Italy and France. As with everything, ups and downs and I'm really happy that I could do this just before starting the new job on September 1st. Great to see those guys after 2 years and get to know new faces that I hope to stay in contact. For now, I will try to keep some form of shape and understand how can I get more power of this old body. And for next year adventure, really thinking of an off road bikepacking... we shall see.
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